Fashion & Trends

As He Opens His 30,000-Piece Archive, Slam Jam’s Luca Benini Shares his Personal Favorites

If you suppose your wardrobe is full to bursting, then spare a thought for Luca Benini. Already an avid collector of clothes earlier than he based Slam Jam in 1989, the Italian entrepreneur has since amassed an archive of 30,000 objects. These have been acquired throughout a profession devoted to figuring out and dealing with among the most important names in streetwear and vogue from Stüssy to Alyx. As effectively as clothes, the Slam Jam vaults embody equipment, sneakers, information, and artwork.

For the primary time, Benini is about to make that archive publicly accessible, each bodily in Slam Jam’s residence city of Ferrara, Italy, and just about by way of archivio.slamjam.com, which is able to open on February 25. The plan is to make use of the archive as a “physical and digital reference point on street culture and cultural anthropology of costume,” in line with a launch. The archive might be curated by Slam Jam in partnership with the Turin-based artwork studio Nationhood to editorialize and contextualize Benini’s heaving cabinets of grails. To do that effectively, 50 new archive items might be revealed each month or so, following the 100-ish tranche accessible at launch. Anyone wishing to go to in individual can guide a slot on-line.

Before this museum of streetwear throws open its doorways, we took the prospect to meet up with Benini—and to ask him which seven items of that 30,000-strong haul he feels most personally connected to. From Stone Island to first technology Air Jordans by way of Supreme decks and artwork by Jun Takahashi (the final two stay in Benini’s house), it’s a trove that tells of a life spent exploring the globe’s freshest springs of cultural creativity.

Vogue: Slam Jam’s success was based on methods that included importing Stüssy into Europe or partnering with Carhartt WIP. Do you suppose related alternatives exist at this time, and the place do you see them coming from?

Luca Benini: I feel they do for positive. But as previously, it’s not simple to identify them—now for various causes—however we’re all the time searching for the genuine that goes past the article itself.

What do you suppose are among the unifying components that hyperlink profitable labels within the so-called streetwear class?

The dialogue with the neighborhood. Relevance comes from the potential of manufacturers to have interaction in new and significant dialogues with the folks and nurture them all through time. Think concerning the International Stüssy Tribe again then, a world set of true connections amongst folks earlier than the social networks, primarily based on passions like clothes, music, sports activities, and so forth.

Sustainability doesn’t but appear to have change into a major issue for streetwear customers and designers—do you suppose that ought to change?

I feel that should change dramatically, and it’s not an choice to ignore that. Taking excellent care of the planet we stay in—and future generations will [live in]—must be a important precedence and inform selections, in all fields and industries. Way too typically I’ve seen the time period being abused in a meaningless manner or simply as a advertising and marketing assertion.

When did you first begin archiving your items, and why?

A number of years in the past. It was my daughter Giulia’s concept, who’s now on the undertaking full time. The goal is instructional, and never simply internally. We hope will probably be an vital supply of reference for the present and future generations of creatives and fanatics. After three many years within the recreation, we’ve felt pushed to order all of the issues I’ve collected, to share them and provides again to the neighborhood. These items signify the heritage of what we take into account a really vital cultural interval that I’ve had the luck to witness in individual.

Is there something that you simply did not archive that you simply later regretted not preserving?

So many I can’t even rely them, fortunately the workforce helps to retrieve a few of them. For positive the Memphis-inspired assortment from a while in the past (I simply obtained a tie) and items by the early Nineteen Eighties Italian wave of innovators, together with Armani, Fiorucci, and Massimo Osti.

We’ve requested you to compile a really quick checklist of the objects to be held within the newly accessible archive that you simply really feel are probably the most useful, whether or not that be in historic, emotional, or financial phrases. Is there something that hyperlinks these items collectively?

The affect on my coronary heart and eyes. All items caught my consideration in a manner or one other, and that occurred all through nearly 4 many years. It all began as my wardrobe and personal assortment, therefore as a really private journey, however then totally grew to become a joint one with my workforce.

Of all the items in your archive edit, which is the one to which you might be most keen on or connected to and why?

For positive the oldest items are very particular to me. Probably the zebra print t-shirt I purchased at Plastic Club co-founder Lino Nisi’s iconic retailer Crazy Boy in Milan in December 1978. A Stone Island Jacket I purchased round 1983. I then gave it to a buddy, and by chance purchased it once more from him afterwards. To be trustworthy, nevertheless, nonetheless yearly there are unimaginable items I fall in love with. And extra to come back for positive.

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