LIFESTYLE

St. John Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Back in 2011, Karen Elson was the face of St. John and Vogue commented that the brand was seemingly trying to appeal to younger clients than its tweed suit-clad fan base. A dozen or so years later, Elson is once again starring in the lookbook, and now St. John is focusing on a more mature customer.

The second part isn’t surprising (and Elson’s presence is certainly a plus). Last season, executive vice president of design Enrico Chiarparin, and Karla Welch, creative consultant for the brand, took the helm at St. John and made it clear they were not going to offer eclectic variations on tweed to chase a younger market. Fall 2023 continues this promise, with a focus on “rediscovering the classics,” as Chiarparin said.

The best of the collection are the tonal outfits with a sleek hit of ’90s minimalism or a touch of a trend. See: a camel colored overcoat with a clingy turtleneck and wide leg pants with two cargo pockets on the side and a scrumptious aubergine bomber with a belt hidden in the back. Many of the tailored jackets have a small amount of padding to give them a house coat-like softness. A boiled wool cardigan-blazer and skater skirt in dove gray are also appealing and wearable. Some of the knee-length dresses or three-quarter length jackets feel matronly, but the collection doesn’t lack for well-proportioned, straightforward coats, suits, and separates. “Here are clothes to wear,” Welch said with a laugh. “What a concept.”

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